Monday, December 31, 2012

Happy New Year!


1 January 2013
Manigong Bagong Taon!

[Note to listeners: to get the intended effect please play all recordings with volume turned up as much as possible]

I should have waited a few weeks longer before I made my post about noise. Last night was the craziest sonic event I’ve ever experienced. First, though, let me back up a bit:

December 30 is Rizal Day in the Philippines. It celebrates (or mourns) the execution of Jose Rizal at the hands of the Spanish in 1896. Rizal is a quasi-religious national saint/martyr here. There weren’t really any celebrations during the day in our part of Manila but there was a big crowd down at his execution site in the Luneta in old Manila (now called Rizal Park). Later that night, though, we were awoken at 11:00pm and midnight by the sounds of firework shows comparable to a standard 4th of July show in the U.S. When we woke up in the morning we commented on how loud all the fireworks were. What little we knew then…

All of our Filipino friends warned us about New Year’s Eve. Each year, 400 to 500 people get seriously injured by firecrackers (including many amputations) and stray bullets shot by policemen and security guards at midnight (more here, and here). Last year, the smoke from firecrackers was so much that they had to shut down the Manila international airport until the air cleared. There were several news stories leading into New Year’s Eve warning of the hazards of firecrackers and that a new crackdown was going to be in place to arrest people caught with illegal fireworks

Our friends warned us to secure ourselves in our apartment by 8:00pm and not to go outside after that. We went for a long evening walk through Ateneo’s campus that got us back to our apartment around 6:00pm. During our walk, we could hear intermittent explosions and firecrackers in the distance so we knew things were heating up.
            When we got back to our apartment, the festivities on our street were just beginning. Many of the neighborhood’s hundreds of small children had airhorns and mini-vuvuzelas that they played non-stop. I wondered how long they could keep going. Turns out they kept at it for over 6 hours. Anyway…fireworks were also starting in the distance. [For the remainder of this post all the recordings were taken inside our apartment with our doors and windows shut and our AC running]
            By 8:00, the horns were still going strong and the explosions were happening more and more frequently. Even though we cranked our AC to high we couldn't begin to drown out the noise. (A word about fireworks here: firecrackers seem more popular than actual fireworks. In other words, the items that people were setting off in the street were built for maximum noise, not for crazy displays of color. The explosions were so loud and powerful that I expected to see chunks of the street blown apart in the morning. Years ago we found old firecrackers up on the St. Lawrence that were now illegal because they were too big. We blew them up to see what they were like. Those fireworks were puny compared to what we heard last night).
            We somehow managed to fall asleep soon after this but were awoken by a much more intense barrage of noise. Cars were honking non-stop and now we could also hear three to four stereos blaring music. This had to be midnight, we thought. Nope, it was only 10:00pm.
            My microphone can’t capture the 360-degree barrage of noise we experienced but it begins to give you some idea (also, I didn't capture the revelry when midnight actually rolled around). At one point, we heard “Call Me Maybe” from the right and “Gangnam Style” on the left, a fitting serenade to the end of the year. One of the other songs that was played several times this evening was Katy Perry’s “Firework.” Last night, though, there were also the appropriate sound-effects to go along with the lyrics. The craziness continued until after midnight: over 6 hours of honking, explosions, and blasting music. Strangely, though, no karaoke.

Since all the buildings in Ateneo have been closed since Dec. 21, I’ve moved my office to a coffee shop on Katipunan, the busy street that is on the opposite side of campus from our apartment. When I left this morning at 8:00am to do the 25-minute walk over I saw tons of firework remains strewn throughout the streets (I forgot to bring my camera to document it). Of course, when I arrived at the coffee shop I saw that it was closed, even though when we asked yesterday they said they would be open their normal hours. So it goes. 



Saturday, December 29, 2012

Tagaytay

Sunday, December 30, 2012

Happy New Year!

Some of our Manila friends took us on an overnight to Tagaytay on Thursday and Friday.  Tagaytay and Lake Taal are about a two hour drive south of Manila and the closest cool weather getaway from the capital.  The weather was noticeably colder, similar to the temperatures and drier air we had in Hong Kong.  It’s a very different experience being tourists accompanying other locals than as foreigners on our own and our trip would be very difficult to replicate without them.  They picked us up in late morning from our apartment and we arrived at Sonya’s Garden in Tagaytay for lunch just before noon.  As the road climbed up to the ridge of the mouth of the volcano (check out the links in the second sentence on Tagaytay and Lake Taal) we passed by several shops selling handmade wooden furniture and many fruit stands, although we later learned that much of the fruit sold there is actually grown in other cities and that the prices are hiked up for all of the tourists visiting Tagaytay.  Pineapple is the one local fruit of Tagaytay and we saw hectares and hectares (no one measures with acres here) of pineapple fields.  Each pineapple plant only produces one fruit at a time and a new plant can grow simply by planting the chopped off top of a pineapple fruit.  This video shows how to twist off a pineapple when it is ready to be harvested.  We sampled jackfruit or langka for the first time at one of the fruit stands we passed.

We had a deliciously fresh lunch at Sonya’s Garden.  It’s become a very popular destination for weddings and almost all of their produce is grown on site.  Our menu featured unlimited salad and pasta, both with unlimited fresh toppings.  A simple meal but fun presentation and comforting to taste flavors from home.  It was our first time having pesto since leaving the U.S.

After lunch we stopped by Marian’s family’s vacation home on the ridge to get a view of Lake Taal.  Most of Tagaytay is located on a busy highway with no sidewalks, but the buildings on the lake side of the ridge highway really do have great views of the lake and the smaller volcano located within Lake Taal.  Still stuffed, we piled back in the van and stopped to buy dinner, including espasol, at a local market before heading over to the vacation home of RJ’s godmother, where we stayed for the night.  We had mentioned a few months ago that we would love to learn how to make turons at some point, so RJ bought ingredients and Marian taught us to make the them. 
Making turon:
We had a great time preparing them and the turons turned out well.  For dinner RJ and Noel prepared crablets and tawili—mini crabs and teeny fish.  We ate the entire crab, yes the entire crablet, claw and all.  This might be the food with the most bragging rights for being adventurous that we’ve had here so far.  Both the crablets and tawilis taste like some weird super crunchy and salty thing…

The next morning we had a nice walk through South Ridge Estates, the housing division of RJ’s godmother’s home.  We passed by some enormous houses, almost all of which are only vacation homes.  We packed up and checked out Ferdinand Marcos’ unfinished mansion at People’s Park in the Sky, which was similar to our experience at Victoria Peak in Hong Kong with its beautiful view completely blocked by dense fog.  (This mansion is part of the legacy Marcos was able to build because of his high ranking on this list. ) They took us to a fast food brunch at Chic-Boy along the ridge, which had great views of Lake Taal, and by Rowena’s bakery for some coconut tarts before we headed back to Manila. 

Ateneo is closed until January 7 and we’re planning on a quiet week of work at Coffee Bean on Katipunan until campus reopens. 

lots of fruit on side of road on way to Tagaytay
getting some langka (jackfruit) 
inside Sonya's Garden
one of the table options in one of the many gardens

cool pitcher plants
3/4 of our friends at our lunch table. inside a giant green house
it was actually a bit chilly up here
endless salad with lots of good toppings
endless pasta with lots of good toppings

Their dog, Bella. The shirt to keep her warm in this 70 degree weather says "High Maintenance."

checking out Caleruega retreat area
this is how pineapples grow, you twist off the fruit when it's ready



Caleruega church
beautiful view

back in Tagaytay. Marian's family's house is on the right
Their view of Lake Taal 
Making turon in house of RJ's godmother. first separate the lumpia wrappers
turons rolled and ready to fry
finished product
espasol - sticky rice with macapuno
lots of turons!
little crabs (eaten whole) and tawilis
fried tilapia
bulalo - bone marrow soup
dinner
view in the morning after the fog lifted
cool moth on the window
house where we stayed. Rj's van in lower right
nice morning walk in Southridge estate. Felt like California 
some huge homes
pineapple farms all over

People's Park in the Sky - once again our trip to a scenic overlook was met with heavy fog
Marcos' unfinished mansion on the highest point of Tagaytay
hard to see the views of Lake Taal today...

someone selling taho near the souvenir stands
lots of hats and scarves for the 70 degree weather
little purses made out of dead frogs

walk back down to the parking lot. Jeepneys give people ride up.
this has seen better days
lots of beautiful decaying structures
exit

brunch along Tagaytay ridge in fastfood joint


stop at Rowena's on way out to get buko (coconut) tarts

(photo from RJ)
Bella on jeepney ride up to People's Park in Sky (photo from RJ)